I just finished installing LEDs on my B7 Audi S4 and wanted to share some pics and a quick DIY if you want to do it yourself. Above I’ve pictured the before & after, as you’ll see you get rid of that yellow-ish halogen with a super bright & clean cool white color from the LED. It takes about 10-20 minutes to install and luckily you don’t have to remove the bumper or headlights to install, you just have to wiggle your hands a bunch.
Please note: this will only work for B7s with xenon headlamps – the halogen headlight housing does not have a DRL bulb (the high beams are located in the halogen housings where the DRL goes in the xenon housings). If you want to do a similar mod for your B7 equipped with halogen headlights, you’ll want to replace the city lights instead of the DRL bulbs – they’re the smaller bulb located in the upper corner of the inner housing of the headlight. It will be the same process except you’ll want to buy a 168/194 sized bulb for the city light (I like this 20 LED one on Amazon) and smaller 50watt/6ohm resistors (like this one). Alternatively, you could do both the DRL & City Lights if you have a xenon-equipped car, which is what I plan to do eventually myself…
Here’s what you’ll need for the conversion:
2 1156 Bayonet Bulbs (one for each side):
2 25 watt, 15 ohm resistors (one for each side):
The install is pretty simple as I said before. I followed this DIY on Tyresmoke.net but took some additional pictures to help out.
First, remove the plastic cap on the side of the housing, then pull out the stock bulb by turning it counter-clockwise. Be careful not to pull the wiring too hard or you’ll pull out the city lights too (the smaller bulb also pictured) which are very hard to remove. It’s a little tricky to get the bulb out but just be patient and if you have to, find a friend with small hands to help out
For the passenger side you’ll need to remove the plastic air intake to access the side of the headlight, which is held in just by two phillips head screws. Here’s a pic of the bulbs taken out:
Next take out the stock bulb and plug in the LED bulb to the grey plastic base.
Next you’ll want to install the resistors. You’ll simply bridge the yellow and brown wires with the resistor connecting the two. It helps to strip a section of both wires so the resistor gets good contact (in theory those resistor clamps should strip for you, but I’ve found they often don’t get a good enough connection). Test to make sure the bulb works and resistor is working too (it will get very hot very quickly) before trying to put the bulb back in, as it’s a pain to wiggle it back into place.
Because the resistor gets very hot, I didn’t want it inside the headlight housing where it could melt other wires or even the headlight housing itself. So I kept the resistor outside of the housing and just kind of pinched the wiring in the cap. I then found a way for each side to tape our mount the resistor where it wouldn’t cause much trouble and stay cooler.
Just repeat for the other side and you’re all set!
Similar Posts:
- HID Fog Lights on a B7 Audi A4 and S4
- LED License Plate Bulb Options for a B7 Audi A4 & S4 (2005.5-2008)
- B7 Audi Clear Corner Mod
- Audi A4 Brake Light Replacement
- Audi A4 LED Interior Lighting B6/B7 – DIY & Pics













at 9:48 AM
i have a A4 Avant B7 im having trouble with my lights i have flicker and also errors on my dash ive changed all my rear bulbs for LEDs do i need to fit 25w or 50w resistors thanks and also would i need resistors for my h11 fog lights and h7 headlight bulbs main and dipped sorry if this sounds dumb plus how many would i need
at 10:03 AM
For your license plate bulbs, yes you need resistors. Check out this article: http://nickscarblog.com/diy/led-license-plate-bulb-options-for-a-b7-audi-a4-s4-2005-5-2008/
Did you change other rear bulbs (e.g. the tail lights themselves)?
For headlights and foglights you shouldn’t need resistors…
at 4:53 PM
Nick, Question regarding the small bulb (parking light – I assume)… How did you take it out? Is it a turn and pull or straight pull out of the socket? I have completed my LED DRL and I wanted to change the small bulb but I am having a hard time taking it out… Thanks for any feedback!
at 4:54 PM
Nick, Please disregard new post… did not see my post and reply. Sorry…
at 5:54 AM
hi nick yeah ive changed all my rear bulbs im getting flicker in my rear fogs tail/stop and errors of no bulbs and im getting fast flashing on my turning signals
at 9:07 AM
@Stephen – I’ve never heard of anyone trying to change the tail light bulbs to LED, from what I’ve read those bulbs are very sensitive and even with resistors it’s probably still going to cause errors. If you want LEDs in your tail light bulbs, I suggest you check out aftermarket LED tail lights like those you can find on ebay…
at 10:16 AM
ok thanks i guess im going to have to try find some LED tail lights do i need 1 x 25w resistors for my number plate and 2 x 50w resistors for my front side lights
at 10:59 AM
@Stephen – all I know is what I’ve posted here, so follow the directions in this article for DRLs and the other article for license plate bulbs. I’m not sure on turn signals.
at 3:45 PM
Hey Nick, killer car and very inspiring blog..
from the photos these look like what I had in mind so i’m thinking of trying this but wanted to know if the led drl’s you installed look super bright with a large glow or are they more subtle..I’m trying for a classy or subtle “less is more look” and aslo trying to avoid that cheap super glow aftermarket look .. also are they on the blue side?
Planning on trying a few of your diy’s so keep em coming..
at 4:36 PM
Hey Nick, Don’t see my previous post so will try again.
On the led dlr’s…do the led’s give off a very bright overpowering look or a more subtlle one. from the photos it looks subtle and classy which is what i am looking for. also is there a blue tinge or more pure white. if you don’ t black out the hosuing does if give off a huge or super bright reflection.
I’m considering doing this to my car so look forward to your answer. thanks doug
at 4:43 PM
Doug – no worries, I have to approve comments first before they show up. The color is slightly blue, but nothing over the top. I’d call it white with a tint of blue, and not the other way around, if that makes sense. I have a lot of pictures on my Flickr which may give you a better idea based on lighting and also with the headlight housings stock versus black: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickroshon/sets/72157629522821782/
Ultimately I think they have a nice look without being too distracting or bright. They function well as a DRL in that they do not provide a lot of light for driving (you wouldn’t want to have only these on in the middle of the night) but they are noticeable to other cars in the daytime.
Hope that helps!
at 4:58 PM
Oh ya the flicker pics helped. that’s what I want. a fresh modern clean look without being too flashy or gawdy. I’m an old guy so those days are long gone..lol. I was thinking about adding led strip a5 type kit but then i found you car and really liked it. besides, i felt odd about adding the stripe kit since that model didn’t have them..missed by one year. 2008 a4 b7 s-line.. but i have the xenons so the drl’s led are a nice touch. i will prbably do the fogs, rears and license plate when my wifes not looking..cheers doug
at 8:14 AM
hey nick, waiting for my leds to come and had
another question if you don’t mind. I am told that if i use B5 perch (lowering)caps on my 2008 b7 sline with comfort suspension that it will lower the front about a half inch without causing any issues like premature shock wear? are you aware of this mod and any thoughts? does this only work for b7′s with true sport suspension? thanks in advance..doug
at 10:53 AM
Doug, I am aware of that mod but have never done it myself. It works on any B7 A4 (sport, non-sport, etc.). People seem to like it, and its cheap. It shouldn’t cause much shock wear as you noted too. Personally I’d go the coilover route and do it once and do it right (if you think you’ll want coilovers in the future), but if all your looking for is a mild drop in the front then it’s a good and cost effective solution…
at 9:06 PM
Hey Nick I purchased the same bulb you have and the 15ohm resistor but I was wondering about the wiring you used and how you connected the resistor to the bulb socket. It would help if you explained a bit more. I’m worried i’ll cut a wrong wire and mess up my whole DRL system. I looked on tyresmoke and tried to follow the tutorial but the wiring confuses me. If you could explain how to bridge the wires it would be much appreciated. Also do I need to purchase some kind of wire splice or the jell it says in the tyresmoke tutorial? and will you tell me about the wiring used for the resistor. Right now I just have two resistors without anything connected to them.
Thanks,
Brooks Benson
at 12:39 PM
@Brooks,
You don’t need the gel (at least I didn’t need any). You do want to use wire taps, as this will allow you to install the resistors without cutting anything. Check out this video – in the video, picture the red wire as the OEM wiring to the light bulb. You’ll then want to connect the resistor like this: http://www.ijdmtoy.com/ebay/iJDMTOY/Resistor/02.jpg between the yellow and brown wires above using a wire tap for each. Each wire tap will have the OEM wire in one end, and the resistor wire in the other end.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBxJmoXdBxk
Hope that helps!
at 12:40 PM
@Brooks – actually, this article is super thorough, might be a better source to review for how to connect a resistor: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Add-Load-Resistor-Fix-For-LED-Signal-Light-a/169.htm
at 11:48 AM
Is there a trick to unscrewing the lightbulb from the grey base? I feel like i’m going to shatter the bulb when I try to unscrew it. Will the bulb release if I turn it or am I just suppose to pull it straight out of the housing. Also is the resistor just so the error message wont pop up on the led screen? One more thing, for the sizing of the wire connecting the resistor, does the size have to be the same as the OEM wire – would it work the same if the resistor wire is a bit bigger? I had to solder the wires to the resistor to then bridge the connection and install the resistor.
at 3:56 PM
The grey base comes off by twisting the bulb to the left and then pulling. You must twist first. Yes the resistor is just to avoid an error message, the bulb will work fine without it you’ll just get an annoying error on your dash. It’s okay if the wire sizes are not identical, as long as they’re similar enough to fuse together…
at 9:01 AM
Okay so I do not get where the resistors go. You said they bridge the yellow and brown so it goes between the yellow and brown? Just one resistor per light? So a yellow goes inside one side of the resistor and brown inside the other?
at 9:07 AM
John – exactly…one resistor per light, and it bridges the two wires together.
at 11:47 AM
Hey Nick did the drl mod following your write up and works like a charm. only thing that bugs me is the bright glow the housing reflects. This seems to give it more a blue tone. The led bayonet has the lights running down the side so it creates a huge glow. Have you ever tried other types of bulbs such as leds with just the light tabs in the front or I read about xenon match bulbs. As is it is still better than oem yellow though..I also ordered the fog kit..should be here saturday. cheers
at 11:52 AM
@doug – I haven’t tried that, but you could definitely order a different bulb and try. Or you could color over some of the bulbs with a black marker (the bulbs that reflect into the housing) and see if that helps?
at 1:01 AM
hey nick. the resistors you have on linked doesnt come with the wires connected to the resistors. where did you get them and how would i connect them to the resistors like you did?
at 8:48 AM
Shawn they don’t have the one I used in the write-up anymore. The one in the post currently has posts to add wires, so that would be your best bet, or you could just splice directly into the OEM bulb wires…
at 12:41 PM
thanks Nick. I’ll probably add wires cuz I dont want the heat to mess anything up if I spice it directly. you know if there’s a specific type/ size wiring I should use?
at 12:45 PM
to clarify, any specific gauge?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_?ie=UTF8&k=electrical+wire&i=apsto clarify, I mean like what gauge?
at 12:58 PM
22 or 24 gauge wire should be fine…
at 1:39 PM
Thanks
at 1:12 PM
hello,
Did you ever get any bulb out errors with the 15ohm resistor. I was looking through this DIY and the one on tyresmoke and it seems Andy was having issues with the 15ohm resistor and ended up needing a 25w 10 ohm resistor
at 1:15 PM
I haven’t, but I bet 10ohm would work if you wanted to try it. There is no specific resistor that works, there is a range of acceptable thresholds so perhaps 15ohm is on the upper end of that range and 10ohm is on the lower end of that range?
at 8:22 AM
Hey Nick,
Does it matter that the new bulbs you have linked to at Amazon look to be a tad longer, 68 count LEDs?
It looks as though they are 2mm longer? Shouldn’t be a problem right?
Thanks!
at 4:30 PM
This is unrelated to the mod you just did but I have a question Nick. I want to run my sidemarkers like the turn signal. How would I mod the sidemarker to stay lit and blink with the turn signal? Thanks bro. Anything will help.
at 9:35 PM
Will – I have no idea, never heard of someone doing that. They blink with the turn signal from factory but I don’t know how to have them always on when not blinking.
at 2:35 PM
Cool thanks Nick. I know huh. I’ve never seen it done. Something for me to research lol.