Home / DIYs / B7 Audi A4, S4 and RS4 LED Daytime Running Lights (DRL)

 

LED DRL for B7 Audi A4 & S4

I just finished installing LEDs on my B7 Audi S4 and wanted to share some pics and a quick DIY if you want to do it yourself. Above I’ve pictured the before & after, as you’ll see you get rid of that yellow-ish halogen with a super bright & clean cool white color from the LED. It takes about 10-20 minutes to install and luckily you don’t have to remove the bumper or headlights to install, you just have to wiggle your hands a bunch.

Please note: this will only work for B7s with xenon headlamps – the halogen headlight housing does not have a DRL bulb (the high beams are located in the halogen housings where the DRL goes in the xenon housings).  If you want to do a similar mod for your B7 equipped with halogen headlights, you’ll want to replace the city lights instead of the DRL bulbs – they’re the smaller bulb located in the upper corner of the inner housing of the headlight. You can check out my City Light DIY here.

For the DRLs, here’s what you’ll need for the conversion:

LEDs for DRL in Audi

2 1156 Bayonet Bulbs (one for each side):


2 resistors (one for each side) – several different resistors work, and the consensus seems to be 5-10 ohms is what you’re looking for, with anything over 23 watts being fine – so here are two options to try. I’d order two of each and see which works better on your car, they’re cheap enough it doesn’t hurt. As you can see in the picture above I’m using 25W 15Ohm resistors which is what I used on my A4. I recently redid the resistors on my S4 when I added LED City Lights and am running  25W 15Ohm resistors that I mounted to the inner fender.

OR if you want something a little more technical, the following setup will run cooler and still eliminate any errors, but you’ll need to wire everything yourself. The nice part about this method is you can have extra long wiring and then mount the resistors well out of the way, such as the inner fender, where they’ll stay cool and out of the way.

The install is pretty simple as I said before. I followed this DIY on Tyresmoke.net but took some additional pictures to help out.

First, remove the plastic cap on the side of the housing, then pull out the stock bulb by turning it counter-clockwise. Be careful not to pull the wiring too hard or you’ll pull out the city lights too (the smaller bulb also pictured) which are very hard to remove. It’s a little tricky to get the bulb out but just be patient and if you have to, find a friend with small hands to help out :) For the passenger side you’ll need to remove the plastic air intake to access the side of the headlight, which is held in just by two phillips head screws. Here’s a pic of the bulbs taken out:

DRL and City Lights

Next take out the stock bulb and plug in the LED bulb to the grey plastic base.

LED DRL bulb

Next you’ll want to install the resistors. You’ll simply bridge the yellow and brown wires with the resistor connecting the two. It helps to strip a section of both wires so the resistor gets good contact (in theory those resistor clamps should strip for you, but I’ve found they often don’t get a good enough connection). Test to make sure the bulb works and resistor is working too (it will get very hot very quickly) before trying to put the bulb back in, as it’s a pain to wiggle it back into place.

Resistor for LED DRLs

Because the resistor gets very hot, I didn’t want it inside the headlight housing where it could melt other wires or even the headlight housing itself. So I kept the resistor outside of the housing and just kind of pinched the wiring in the cap. I then found a way for each side to tape our mount the resistor where it wouldn’t cause much trouble and stay cooler.

LED DRLs in B7 Headlights

Just repeat for the other side and you’re all set!

LED DRLs in B7 Headlights

 

About the author: Nick Roshon

 

Nick Roshon is a blogger who is passionate about Audis and European cars in general. He owns a 2006 S4 and before that had a 2006 A4. His driving experience includes numerous track days throughout California, Nevada and Arizona. In his day job, Nick is a digital marketer and lives in San Diego, CA, USA.

 

Recent posts in DIYs

 

141 Comments

  1. Great blog nick very interesting! I was just wondering: is this mod possible for my 2007 A4 2.0T ?? Or this only fits with S4s??

    Thanks!

  2. Yes, it will work on any B7 – the A4, S4 or RS4. Also works on all body styles (sedan, avant, cabriolet) assuming they have the xenon headlights – the halogen headlights do not have a DRL bulb. You can replace the city lights instead – as noted above.

  3. this looks great – I’ve wanted to do LED DRLs but didn’t want to head down the LED-strip route. this seems relatively plug-n-play. from which site did you end up buying the bulbs and resistors?

  4. Hi Steve, I bought them from Amazon using the links above :) thanks!

  5. I’ve been thinking about switching out my headlights on my Audi and this seems pretty simple enough to do.

  6. They would probably fit in the housing, but my guess is that they’d need different resistors. Those might be overkill 😉

  7. Thanks. BTW it looks from the picture that you used ~44 LED but the suggested bulb is 30 LED? Can you reconfirm which we should be using with those resistors? 44 or 33 LED? Much appreciate and cant wait to try.

  8. Either one should be fine but I think the one I used was closer to 40 LEDs I just couldn’t find it anymore when I wrote this post.

  9. Hi Nick,

    was wondering if you had a link to the specific bulb that you used (44led), i tried looking everywhere (ebay etc) for it but i can’t seem to find it! would really appreciate your help, if you cannot find a link to them, would those resisters and the 30 LEDs work okay?

    thanks again, big plans this weekend!

    -Lou

  10. @Lou
    I think it was these upon digging through emails/receipts: http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm

    Do a Ctrl+F and search for “44 High Powered Wide Angle SMT LEDS” – its about 80% down on the page and the description says its meant to eliminate bulb-out warnings in BMW, Mercedes, Audi and others…although that’s not necessarily the case in our cars, as I tried without a resistor and there was in fact a bu lb out error.

  11. Thanks a lot nick!

    after reading all of the lights stuff you’ve put out, the only thing am not going with are the fog HID Kit (might go with Sonic Tuning) just because i read many bad reviews, of course i hope yours work out perfect though!

    Thanks!
    Lou

  12. Very cool!

    In regards to HID kits, totally up to you. I have a friend who has had the Xentec kit for over a year and no issues. My only issue with the Sonic Tuning kit is that it costs about three times the cost of a Xentec kit. Since they’re so easy to replace, I’d rather gamble on the Xentec kit and just buy a replacement kit 1-2 years from now (and still have less money invested) if/when they go out, rather than pay $120+ for a kit that may or may not be any more durable or long lasting. I haven’t read enough into the reviews, but so far no issues with my kit, hard to beat for $35…

  13. Your car is coming along nicely Nick. I look forward to more pics and tips. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do it.

  14. Thanks Brian – I’m a bit behind but have a few more posts and pictures coming soon :)

  15. Hey I don’t have an Audi myself. I know, shame on me; however, this does give me some ideas for my own car. I haven’t done a whole lot of modding, so it’s time to step it up. Thanks for the inspiration there Nick. Have a good one.

  16. LED upgrades are cheap and make a huge difference. I’m a big fan if you can’t tell already :)

  17. Christopher Valentine

    Just did this to the DTM tonight.. Looks killer!!!! I have the resistors inside the housing of the headlights, hope it doesnt do any damage.. I may relocate them later on though in fear they might melt some stuff :-/

  18. Hi nick,
    Your car was a bi xenon headlight to begin with?
    Ron

  19. My S4 was, yes, but my A4 was originally equipped with halogen headlights. I bought a set of European E-codes from Germany and used a Kufatec harness to retrofit the bi-xenons to my A4 – it was fairly easy to do with the harness…

  20. I think you may have the wrong link for the bulbs! I just got mine from that link and when I went to. Install them noticed they have no little LEDs on the front and they are completely round unlike yours

  21. @John Michael – that is strange, they must have changed it. I looked around and found a better bulb and updated the post to reflect this. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. Hopefully you can return the bulb if you didn’t like the old one?

  22. Thanks. I will try to return them, if not, it’s not a huge loss. I’m guessing installing the ones I have will have no real impact without the front LEDs

  23. Those seem too large? But it may be just me. I don’t know much about lights

    These look better. – BA15s Bayonet Base 36LEDs SMD Bulb
    http://www.amazon.com/BrightChoice-BA15s-Bayonet-Base-36LEDs/dp/B008XB9BJY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1357762420&sr=1-2&keywords=1156+Bayonet+Bulbs

    Any imput?

  24. @John Michael,
    The ones above are only slightly bigger than what I have in my car (one extra row of lights) so I think it should fit, but the ones you linked to should be fine too.

  25. Pingback: DRL/ Side light Load Resistors

  26. But use the same resistors?

  27. @John – the resistors should be fine yes – the bulbs aren’t that different and the extra few LEDs draw such a small load that the it should barely register a difference. The resistors aren’t an exact science in that the car is just looking for a range of acceptable wattage/current, so it’s not like it has to be an exact wattage or voltage in order to avoid the warning light, it just has to be in the right ballpark…

  28. Would 25w25ohm resistors work with 60 count leds?

  29. I don’t know without trying it first…

  30. they do work but run super hot. I still get a bulb out warning when I first start the car and the Drls are on, but then goes away . is that normal, or is it wrong ?

  31. @Slvrb7 – running hot is normal, but that it doesn’t work until the car is warm is a little odd. You may want to expirement with different resistor sizes to see if that helps?

  32. It also only seems to be on left side unless its just not reading resistors quick enough after first starting.

  33. It’s just first starting like pops up then goes away a second or two later should it not POP up at all?

  34. It shouldn’t, but if its going away in a few seconds then it doesn’t sound that bad either…

  35. Ok thanks man great DIY never thought of doing until I found ur DIY.

  36. slvrb7 – good to hear it! Sorry it’s not completely straightforward as every bulb/resistor combo will be a little different, as well as every car may be a little different in terms of acceptable ranges of load/current. It’s not an exact science so sometimes you’ve got to try different resistors until you nail the right load to match a more OEM current.

  37. Yeah I changed to 50w6ohm and works with no error at all, but they still run hot. Where do I mount them? I have them mounted with zip ties, but worried they may melt the ties. How did you do it?

  38. @slvrb7 you can see how I mounted them above…they’re kind of just free standing. They do get really hot – as in they’ll burn your fingers seconds within them turning on – so I didn’t mount them to anything specific for that reason. I have them outside of the housing so the air can cool them a bit and they’re not touching anything plastic. Use the wires and clamp them with the headlight caps…if you want to make a mount, use some scrap metal – that’d be a much better way to do it than I did, but my lazy solution seems to be holding up…

  39. Hey Nick,

    You got a great site. I have a 2008 RS4 (B7), do you know if the DRL LED mod will work for that car? I flipped open the water protection cap and the space is incredibly small. Also, with the clear corner mod, once I get the light back in, will the car auto-adjust them so they are leveled or do I have to do it myself? I have AFS with the headlights.

  40. Hey Nick,

    Don’t bother answering the first part of my question regarding the mod working on a 2008 rs4, you already did in an earlier post.

  41. Aphilip, you should be fine with the auto leveling headlights, just take your time putting them back on the car and aligning them with the bumper, headlights and fenders so they’re in the same place they were before, and the car will take care of the alignment like it normally does. The LED DRLs do work on the RS4 as its the same headlight housing as the S4 or xenon-equipped A4. Good luck with the mods!

  42. I have a a4 b7 2.0 TFSI. I had xenons plus pack fitted which included adaptive lighting. I fitted led side lights with built in resistors which work fine and have fitted Cree LEDs to DRL’s. the resistors are 50w on the DRL’s and get red hot as in burns hand within 1 min of turning on which does concern me a bit as worry about fire in the engine bay. My question is could you wire the resistor in series instead of parallel os that if the bulb did fail the DIS would show a bulb fault?

  43. Good question, but beyond my level of expertise. I’m not sure…

  44. Nick, have you had any trouble with the individual LED’s failing or flickering? I’ve been running LED drls since last summer and my car ate two pairs of LEDS already. I’m using 50w 6ohm resistors but they don’t throw a code. Beginning to think I may need a different resistor? Thanks for your help

  45. Perhaps you are right. I’m using 25w15ohm resistors and not having any issues like that – still on my original set (although occasionally one of the tiny LEDs within the bulb will go out or flicker, but most still work fine).

  46. Finally got my other leds. If I want to install them without the resistors so I can make sure they work and see how they look, will that mess anything up? Like blow a fuse or anything? I expect a bulb out error but then I can fix it with the resistor. I want to do this so I can switch back to original if I want at first and not have to worry about the resistor if I do not like them

  47. You are fine to hook it up sans resistors at first. You may get a bulb out error but it won’t blow anything up. The problem is actually that the LED draws too little electricity, not too much.

  48. Nick, thanks for the info on your DIY. I have a b7 s4 and just did the DRL mod. I want to change the small bulbs but had difficulty taking them out. How did you take them out? Are they screw on or pulled out? Thanks.

  49. They are definitely difficult. You have to twist first (turn left) and then pull them out.

  50. i have a A4 Avant B7 im having trouble with my lights i have flicker and also errors on my dash ive changed all my rear bulbs for LEDs do i need to fit 25w or 50w resistors thanks and also would i need resistors for my h11 fog lights and h7 headlight bulbs main and dipped sorry if this sounds dumb plus how many would i need :)

  51. For your license plate bulbs, yes you need resistors. Check out this article: http://nickscarblog.com/diy/led-license-plate-bulb-options-for-a-b7-audi-a4-s4-2005-5-2008/

    Did you change other rear bulbs (e.g. the tail lights themselves)?

    For headlights and foglights you shouldn’t need resistors…

  52. Nick, Question regarding the small bulb (parking light – I assume)… How did you take it out? Is it a turn and pull or straight pull out of the socket? I have completed my LED DRL and I wanted to change the small bulb but I am having a hard time taking it out… Thanks for any feedback!

  53. Nick, Please disregard new post… did not see my post and reply. Sorry…

  54. hi nick yeah ive changed all my rear bulbs im getting flicker in my rear fogs tail/stop and errors of no bulbs and im getting fast flashing on my turning signals

  55. @Stephen – I’ve never heard of anyone trying to change the tail light bulbs to LED, from what I’ve read those bulbs are very sensitive and even with resistors it’s probably still going to cause errors. If you want LEDs in your tail light bulbs, I suggest you check out aftermarket LED tail lights like those you can find on ebay…

  56. ok thanks i guess im going to have to try find some LED tail lights do i need 1 x 25w resistors for my number plate and 2 x 50w resistors for my front side lights

  57. @Stephen – all I know is what I’ve posted here, so follow the directions in this article for DRLs and the other article for license plate bulbs. I’m not sure on turn signals.

  58. Hey Nick, killer car and very inspiring blog..
    from the photos these look like what I had in mind so i’m thinking of trying this but wanted to know if the led drl’s you installed look super bright with a large glow or are they more subtle..I’m trying for a classy or subtle “less is more look” and aslo trying to avoid that cheap super glow aftermarket look .. also are they on the blue side?
    Planning on trying a few of your diy’s so keep em coming..

  59. Hey Nick, Don’t see my previous post so will try again.
    On the led dlr’s…do the led’s give off a very bright overpowering look or a more subtlle one. from the photos it looks subtle and classy which is what i am looking for. also is there a blue tinge or more pure white. if you don’ t black out the hosuing does if give off a huge or super bright reflection.
    I’m considering doing this to my car so look forward to your answer. thanks doug

  60. Doug – no worries, I have to approve comments first before they show up. The color is slightly blue, but nothing over the top. I’d call it white with a tint of blue, and not the other way around, if that makes sense. I have a lot of pictures on my Flickr which may give you a better idea based on lighting and also with the headlight housings stock versus black: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickroshon/sets/72157629522821782/

    Ultimately I think they have a nice look without being too distracting or bright. They function well as a DRL in that they do not provide a lot of light for driving (you wouldn’t want to have only these on in the middle of the night) but they are noticeable to other cars in the daytime.

    Hope that helps!

  61. Oh ya the flicker pics helped. that’s what I want. a fresh modern clean look without being too flashy or gawdy. I’m an old guy so those days are long gone..lol. I was thinking about adding led strip a5 type kit but then i found you car and really liked it. besides, i felt odd about adding the stripe kit since that model didn’t have them..missed by one year. 2008 a4 b7 s-line.. but i have the xenons so the drl’s led are a nice touch. i will prbably do the fogs, rears and license plate when my wifes not looking..cheers doug

  62. hey nick, waiting for my leds to come and had
    another question if you don’t mind. I am told that if i use B5 perch (lowering)caps on my 2008 b7 sline with comfort suspension that it will lower the front about a half inch without causing any issues like premature shock wear? are you aware of this mod and any thoughts? does this only work for b7’s with true sport suspension? thanks in advance..doug

  63. Doug, I am aware of that mod but have never done it myself. It works on any B7 A4 (sport, non-sport, etc.). People seem to like it, and its cheap. It shouldn’t cause much shock wear as you noted too. Personally I’d go the coilover route and do it once and do it right (if you think you’ll want coilovers in the future), but if all your looking for is a mild drop in the front then it’s a good and cost effective solution…

  64. Hey Nick I purchased the same bulb you have and the 15ohm resistor but I was wondering about the wiring you used and how you connected the resistor to the bulb socket. It would help if you explained a bit more. I’m worried i’ll cut a wrong wire and mess up my whole DRL system. I looked on tyresmoke and tried to follow the tutorial but the wiring confuses me. If you could explain how to bridge the wires it would be much appreciated. Also do I need to purchase some kind of wire splice or the jell it says in the tyresmoke tutorial? and will you tell me about the wiring used for the resistor. Right now I just have two resistors without anything connected to them.
    Thanks,
    Brooks Benson

  65. @Brooks,
    You don’t need the gel (at least I didn’t need any). You do want to use wire taps, as this will allow you to install the resistors without cutting anything. Check out this video – in the video, picture the red wire as the OEM wiring to the light bulb. You’ll then want to connect the resistor like this: http://www.ijdmtoy.com/ebay/iJDMTOY/Resistor/02.jpg between the yellow and brown wires above using a wire tap for each. Each wire tap will have the OEM wire in one end, and the resistor wire in the other end.

    Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBxJmoXdBxk

    Hope that helps!

  66. @Brooks – actually, this article is super thorough, might be a better source to review for how to connect a resistor: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Add-Load-Resistor-Fix-For-LED-Signal-Light-a/169.htm

  67. Is there a trick to unscrewing the lightbulb from the grey base? I feel like i’m going to shatter the bulb when I try to unscrew it. Will the bulb release if I turn it or am I just suppose to pull it straight out of the housing. Also is the resistor just so the error message wont pop up on the led screen? One more thing, for the sizing of the wire connecting the resistor, does the size have to be the same as the OEM wire – would it work the same if the resistor wire is a bit bigger? I had to solder the wires to the resistor to then bridge the connection and install the resistor.

  68. The grey base comes off by twisting the bulb to the left and then pulling. You must twist first. Yes the resistor is just to avoid an error message, the bulb will work fine without it you’ll just get an annoying error on your dash. It’s okay if the wire sizes are not identical, as long as they’re similar enough to fuse together…

  69. Okay so I do not get where the resistors go. You said they bridge the yellow and brown so it goes between the yellow and brown? Just one resistor per light? So a yellow goes inside one side of the resistor and brown inside the other?

  70. John – exactly…one resistor per light, and it bridges the two wires together.

  71. Hey Nick did the drl mod following your write up and works like a charm. only thing that bugs me is the bright glow the housing reflects. This seems to give it more a blue tone. The led bayonet has the lights running down the side so it creates a huge glow. Have you ever tried other types of bulbs such as leds with just the light tabs in the front or I read about xenon match bulbs. As is it is still better than oem yellow though..I also ordered the fog kit..should be here saturday. cheers

  72. @doug – I haven’t tried that, but you could definitely order a different bulb and try. Or you could color over some of the bulbs with a black marker (the bulbs that reflect into the housing) and see if that helps?

  73. hey nick. the resistors you have on linked doesnt come with the wires connected to the resistors. where did you get them and how would i connect them to the resistors like you did?

  74. Shawn they don’t have the one I used in the write-up anymore. The one in the post currently has posts to add wires, so that would be your best bet, or you could just splice directly into the OEM bulb wires…

  75. thanks Nick. I’ll probably add wires cuz I dont want the heat to mess anything up if I spice it directly. you know if there’s a specific type/ size wiring I should use?

  76. to clarify, any specific gauge?

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s_?ie=UTF8&k=electrical+wire&i=apsto clarify, I mean like what gauge?

  77. 22 or 24 gauge wire should be fine…

  78. hello,

    Did you ever get any bulb out errors with the 15ohm resistor. I was looking through this DIY and the one on tyresmoke and it seems Andy was having issues with the 15ohm resistor and ended up needing a 25w 10 ohm resistor

  79. I haven’t, but I bet 10ohm would work if you wanted to try it. There is no specific resistor that works, there is a range of acceptable thresholds so perhaps 15ohm is on the upper end of that range and 10ohm is on the lower end of that range?

  80. Hey Nick,

    Does it matter that the new bulbs you have linked to at Amazon look to be a tad longer, 68 count LEDs?

    It looks as though they are 2mm longer? Shouldn’t be a problem right?

    Thanks!

  81. This is unrelated to the mod you just did but I have a question Nick. I want to run my sidemarkers like the turn signal. How would I mod the sidemarker to stay lit and blink with the turn signal? Thanks bro. Anything will help.

  82. Will – I have no idea, never heard of someone doing that. They blink with the turn signal from factory but I don’t know how to have them always on when not blinking.

  83. Cool thanks Nick. I know huh. I’ve never seen it done. Something for me to research lol.

  84. Hi mate I’ve fitted the LEDs with the resistors on the drl lights and now I have a warning signal on the dash with a picture of my head light and a 90 degrees arrow! I can only guess I’ve upset something removing the lights???

  85. I believe that means your headlight is out of alignment/angled incorrectly. You may have knocked the lens out of focus. Check the bulb and make sure you didn’t knock anything out of place with the main beam headlight…

  86. Hey, I’m about to order the parts from amazon but I noticed the resistors don’t show the black cables you show.
    Do those come included, or so I have to purchase them separately?

  87. I just updated it, found a better link for the resistors that have the wires included.

  88. Okay cool. I also want to add LED strips and tap them to the DRLs. Which wire would be positive and negative?

  89. Not sure on that one, sorry!

  90. Quick question.
    Do u need a resistor in each of the cables? (Yellow & brown) for a total of 2 per side?
    Or just one for the positive?

  91. You need just one per side – the resistors actually bridge the yellow & brown wires together.

  92. Sorry alittle confused.

    So the resistor bridges the two wires and then those wires go to the bulb(connector).
    Do you have any pictures of that?
    Sorry for the confusion.

  93. The resistor connected would look like a ” H ” ?

  94. Jonathan – check out this article for how to install a resistor, should clear it up: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Add-Load-Resistor-Fix-For-LED-Signal-Light-a/169.htm

  95. thanks I get it now!

  96. Nick,

    i appreciate all the hard work you have been doing on this!

    I just bought an 07 S4 and bought the bulbs to do the DRLs. They havent shown up in the mail yet but i had some questions.

    I was looking at my DRLs yesterday and they were NEVER on… no matter what setting i had my lights on, and all times during the day and night… when do they turn on? my assumption was that they are always on? the small bulb next to the DRL is always on, but the actual DRL never turns on.

    Let me know if you have any suggestions for troubleshooting this problem.

    Thanks

  97. Hi Kyle – you can turn the DRLs on using the switch to the right of the headlight switch – it is a knob you turn left or right between I/O settings. You might have to push the knob inward to get it to pop out so you can switch between them.

  98. I got it all done today and it works great. the resistors you linked dont have long enough wires… atleast mine didnt. they dont have the ability to be mounted OUTSIDE of the headlight enclosure. Am I bound to have problems keeping it inside the headlight?

    I might just get some extra wire and some crimps and make it longer, i just dont want to dig everything out again.

    Also… It is a pain when you drop stuff down there… I had the gasket for the plastic cap fall down and it is not retrievable! very irritating..

  99. So… Nick…

    i was had the right and left headlight warning signal go off on the dash… I installed everything as you said it… and i used these ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EDF8HY/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=niscabl-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=B004EDF8HY&adid=1WMBK04KAQFQ9HTD924E&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fnickscarblog.com%2Fcars%2Fb7-audi-a4-s4-and-rs4-led-daytime-running-lights-drl ) resistors that you suggested.

    No idea why its not working… but im trying to sort out how to fix it… any ideas?

  100. I was going to ask… the warning went off and then i reinstalled the resistors and made sure they had a good connection… do i need to clear codes? or should they clear on their own?

  101. They should clear on their own. It sounds like bad connections. That it is a shame the wires for the resistors are too short. They keep changing the design on these things…

  102. Yeah I still have the warning…

    It says right and left headlight though… Not any DRL is anything…

    I’m going to try and redo the little clips… The factory wiring sheaths are extremely pliable and I think those clips have trouble getting a good connection with the wire.

  103. Kyle – I’d recommend stripping the wire underneath the clips, I had to do that on mine before it got a good connection…you are spot on about the plastic covering of the OEM wires being pretty sturdy.

  104. Hey Nick,
    I bought the LEDs and the resistors and I thought I had put the resistor on correctly but I still got an error.
    Does it matter which wire connects to which (red to yellow, black to brown or red to brown, black to yellow). Or do you think I just need a better connection to the resistor?
    Thank you.

  105. Nick, I followed your instructions to a tee on my 2005.5 Blue B-7 S4. Really looks great, even the dealer wanted to know more. Working fine since installation mid June. Then oops, the left is out. Checked the resistor outside (in cool air) and yup, it’s hot. Haven’t gone any farther yet (no time), however have you or your followers ever have one of these LEDs burn out? I bought the same as you suggested through Amazon.

  106. In all likelihood, the bulb probably burnt out. These bulbs are all made in China and some are going to be better batches than others. I’d just buy another one and replace it, should do the trick. Haven’t heard too many people have issues with these so hopefully you just got unlucky. Glad to hear you enjoyed the mod otherwise!

  107. Hey nick, just installed some new fogs which was very easy thanks to your help. I have a 2008 A4 with the regular halogen bulbs i believe, the yellow ones? Its an s line. I wanted to just get some LED or xenon bulbs, the white light not the blue, but I’m not sure if they are compatible with my audi or which bulbs to use. any advice? Thanks!

  108. If you went HID/Xenon, you’d need xenon ballasts too so look for an “HID kit” that works for H7 bulbs. I wouldn’t really recommend doing this though if your car came with halogens originally, as your headlight housings don’t have a projector lense to focus the bulb and therefore the HID/xenons will be aimed really high and blind oncoming traffic. I’d find some H7 bulbs that are bluish colored that achieve the same effect like Philips Silverstars. Check out eBay :)

  109. Do not put these on or near the housing…. Melted right through a section or my housing :(

  110. Thanks for this. BUT…I am getting fogging since you let the wires hang out. Will need to figure out another way. Caps are easy enough to replace (if ever) prolly will put a couple of wire holes and silicon it.

  111. Just make sure the resistors aren’t touching anything that can melt, as they get really hot and can melt plastic…

  112. Sorry click on the FAQS and tech support tab then it’s last pic.

  113. Is it bad to run without resistors? Will the light melt the housing? The resistor broke.. The rubber coming off the orange piece melted off and won’t stay in place, so I ordered a new one. Other than that going wrong great DIY looks so good.

  114. @Alex – its not a problem at all, it will just throw a “bulb out” error in the dash since the resistor isn’t in place. You can definitely go this way as long as you want, it just gets annoying after a while 😉

  115. Hope you can help. I changed my DRL to LED with resistors, however error light for Left side still stays on and bulbs work. However i took resistors out now and put OEM bulbs and error still stays on and bulbs do work. can’t get error to leave.

  116. What does the error say exactly, Wesley?

  117. Nick, if you get the Quattro Quarterly check the new issue. My article on “The S4 and the Ocicat” mentions my S4 mods via your instructions. Your web is also published with my article.

  118. No way!! That’s awesome…my membership and subscription lapsed, I’ll have to find someone who has this. Thanks for the shout-out, Everett!

  119. Hi Nick, I just had a quick question regarding to this DIY. If I was looking for a more permanent solution, and to also eliminate any possibility of a bad connection happening couldn’t I just solder the resisters to the wires instead of using resistor clamps? Sorry if it’s a stupid question I just wanted to double check before I did anything I would regret.

  120. Yeah, soldering is definitely the way to go if you’re comfortable with a soldering iron!

  121. If we found an Error Free Led bulb in this size would it work without the addition of the resistor?

  122. 50/50 shot – error-free just means there is a resistor built in, so it just depends if the right size/ohm/wattage resistor is built-in or not. It’s hard to tell until you try it. I ran “error free” LEDs for my license plate bulbs and they worked fine for me, but not for others, so it’s hard to predict…

  123. Hi,i would like to ask,do you had any problem with daylight running led,which ones you built? Or it works fine,since you installed?

  124. Hi Robert – haven’t had a single issue since I’ve installed nearly 3 years ago! I have the same products in this post.

  125. Hi Nick I have a 2011 audi a4 2.0 se tdi and I bought 4 led headlight bulbs and some led sidelight bulbs but my car says that my led headlights are blown when they work how do I sort this or will I have to change bulbs to hids?? Thanks

  126. I haven’t heard of anyone using LEDs as the main headlight bulb, but since they work and just get a “bulb out” error that means you’ll need a resistor to increase the load the LEDs are pulling. I’m not sure what size resistor, but maybe buy a few resistors and try them out.

  127. Pingback: 2007 Audi A4 LED DRL Conversion | Right Angles

  128. Hey Nick, just wondering you ever got around to installing the LED city lights? Those tiny bulbs next to the DRLs. I am about to get this done and want to do the whole job in one go

  129. Kevin – I did this back on my A4 but haven’t redone it on my S4 yet. I need to swap out my headlight bulbs so maybe I’ll use that as an excuse to do this too, stay tuned. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/419122-LED-city-lights-that-actually-work-for-B7-with-no-added-separate-resistor

  130. Sorry for this dumb question, but how do you know the difference between a xenon headlamp and halogen headlamps? I have a 2008 Audi A4 quattro s-line

  131. Xenon/HID headlights are much more powerful and emit a whiter light, halogen bulbs are more yellowish and weak. The xenon headlamps have a projector that focus the beam, while halogens do not. You can see the difference visually in this post in the top image, the top are xenon and have a projector lens, the bottom are are halogen and do not: http://nickscarblog.com/diy/halogen-to-xenon-conversion-for-b7-audi-a4s-2005-5-2008

  132. So not only am I getting the right beam headlight warning still but also I’m getting a draw of about .82 amps off my battery when the car is off. Have you experienced this within any of the LED installs w/resistors? It’s killing me!

  133. Matt – I haven’t had that problem. Are you sure you tapped the right wires? the DRLs will automatically turn on/off with the car, so it shouldn’t be drawing any amps when off. I’d start with double checking all of your connections and working back from there…

  134. Hey Nick – Any chance you have a secret for getting the engine bay fuse box open? There is at least one T30 bolt under the wiper that is pretty much impossible to get to (already lost 1 bit trying to put it in with needle nose pliers). Was going to try and monitor the amp draw when removing the fuses. Next option is letting the car sit for a while with the negative cable off then reconnect and see if one or more are getting hot. I didn’t have this issue before any of the DIYs so obviously I’m thinking it has to be something I did. I’m 99% sure I tapped the right wires and agree if the lights are off they should be off but the resistors aren’t inline technically so can complete the circuit even with the car off.

  135. I couldn’t ever figure it out either, I just kind of broke it in a corner so I could lift up far enough to sneak things through there on my A4 when I did my boost gauge. If you revert back to your old bulbs does this problem still exist? Might be a good place to start.

  136. Nick, was wondering if you could tell me the correct gauge of wire to use for the resistor? Just bought my resistors with no wiring on them yet so I can mount them and plan accordingly with the right amount of wire. Thanks

  137. I used 18 gauge wire and picked up a spool of this, worked perfect: http://amzn.to/1SnfZAs

Leave a Reply